Pre-historic cliff-dwellings parallel a modern town below. Some of the dwellings throughout Dordogne are so old — 20,000-40,000 years — that Roman, Medieval and Renaissance architecture seems astonishingly young by comparison. We had so much fun climbing eroded stone staircases that led to pre-historic caves and exploring yet another medieval castle. In the space of two hours, we paddled by three of them nestled on hills along the riverbank — big imposing structures so fantastical, they had us yelling Westeros!

Correction: They had Dan yelling Westeros! I kept my Winterfell-like dignity.









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